Friday, January 27, 2012

We're not in [fill in the blank] anymore.

For all of you in the States, I would like to point out that what you're reading right now is from the future. You may think it's Thursday night, but I'm writing this from Friday afternoon. How's that for mind blowing? Sam and I are not only globe trotters [though I don't recall any trotting specifically to get here] but time travelers. I'll sign autographs on request.

We have been in China approximately two and a half weeks, two of which were spent getting over jet lag. It's no joke to wake up at 4:00am ready to start the day or be ready for bed at about 6:00pm. It's like my first trimester all over again--the 6:00pm going-to-bed part, anyway; certainly not the ready-to-start-the-day at any time whatsoever part. And, not even kidding, I think there have been fireworks of some kind at some point of the day and evening for the last two weeks. The Chinese idea of celebration has made me slightly ashamed of our own in America. Why resign yourself to only one day to celebrate important things when you can stretch it out to two or three weeks? I'm thinking Thanksgiving in particular could really benefit from that mentality.

So, China. I thought it might be entertaining to write down some of my first impressions, though I really ought to have done it two weeks ago when they were really fresh. I think I've lost some of my shell-shocked reaction as I've gotten used to things.

Driving
Driving is an art here, with no particular rules or expectations. We won't get our car until sometime in March, which I think is a good thing. I don't think we would be brave enough to try driving on our own until then, anyway.
  • Taxis. As we currently have no car of our own, we are at the mercy of taxis to get around (unless a friend very graciously offers to drive us home or pick us up, naturally). I think there are about a million taxis here. That seems like a big number until you realize there are 14 million people in the city, and almost every single one of them is willing to shell out for a taxi when it's cold outside (which has been nearly every day we've been here). This adds to the excitement of going anywhere. Additional excitement can be found in telling the taxi driver where you want to go in your best Chinese and having him look at you blankly, obviously understanding nothing of what you said. All part of the adventure.
  • Bicycles and scooters. You may have heard that bicycling traffic in China is high. I feel like any rumors you've heard are grossly understated. Whereas in America bikes are largely at the mercy of drivers, the opposite appears to be true here. If a few hundred bikes are determined to go across the intersection even though you have a green light, who are you to say no? I remember the first time being outside during the day and being overwhelmed at the sheer number of bikes and scooters and how the cars really had no choice but the bow to their will. It's phenomenal.
  •  Variation. As far as traffic in the road goes, as long as it has wheels, it's legit on the road. This includes cars, bikes, scooters, rickshaws, wheelchairs, etc. The large roads through the city have wide bike lanes, protected by metal barriers, which are equally anything goes. If you're cycling east but on the westbound side of the road, no matter--just hop in the closest bike lane and be careful not to crash into oncoming traffic. They also double as turning lanes for cars, usually taxis, even if the turn isn't for another half mile or so. And if you're tired of the segregation of the bike lane, feel free to join normal traffic. This applies to all wheeled modes of transportation, as listed previously.
  • Pedestrians. Where in America, pedestrians look before crossing the street, this is something of a hazard in China. If you, as the pedestrian, make eye contact with the driver, you are giving him permission to go, rather than the other way around. Therefore crossing the street requires a bit of out-of-the-corner-of-your-eye watching to make sure you're not going to be hit but otherwise a blustering show of fearlessness as you step into traffic. Also, crosswalks are optional. If you want to cross diagonally, go for it. Cars will, for the most part, stop for you. If only one side of the street is clear, cross it and wait on the double yellow lines for the other side to be clear. Certainly no one's going to stop for you, so you take your journeying in your own hands and be forceful about it. Talk about self-empowerment.
  • Rules. Driving rules are more like guidelines, or perhaps the tools of lesser mortals. Red lights are optional. If you see a gap, especially if you are a taxi, you take it. Cutting others off is a matter of course and nothing to get upset about. Merging requires only an inch of space between cars, and even the inch is not required. Distinguished lanes are also optional. You can be in the right lane, the left lane, between the two, the bike lane, or even the oncoming traffic lane, and it's all perfectly legit. The only hard-and-fast rule seems to be "Don't get hit and don't hit anyone." As long as you follow that, most things seem perfectly appropriate.
  • Honking. As you might imagine, there is quite a bit of honking that goes on. However, it has a rather different feel to it. Where people in the States honk to show their displeasure, in China it's a matter of courtesy. A "hey I'm coming up behind you and am about to cut you off" or a "I'm flying past this entrance, make sure you look before merging" or "you're stopped in the middle of the street and I'm going around you" or "hey cyclist, I'm turning right and will be close enough to clip you, so be aware." Honking, I believe, takes the place of traditional driving rules in trying to ensure public safety. And it's always a little honk--a "hello, I'm here, please watch out" sort of honk--rather than the lay-it-on-you-there's-no-way-you-can-miss-that-I'm-put-out sort of honk Americans seem to prefer. As I'm not even sure where the horn is on our car, I foresee difficulties in driving should I ever feel so brave.
All right, this is getting long. I guess I'll split things up so this doesn't end up being a book all by itself. I'm pretty sure there was more I planned to write about driving, but it's gone now. Luckily we're here for two years, so there's a chance I'll have more to say about it later.

7 comments:

Margaret said...

How is the future? Let me know the second the world ends. That way I'll have 14 hours to pray and repent.

Also, AMEN to everything you said about driving in China! Great observations in your two weeks. When I rode on the bus in Guangdong, the driver made two detours because he needed lunch; the first detour, he waited in line for five minutes but came back empty-handed because the food was too expensive. His son was also in the front seat and threw up a few times due to motion sickness. Fun fun.

Welcome to the lives of my ancestors. Hope the two years are fantastic for you!

P.S. Remember that there is no such thing as a line out there. Even grandmas will push you out of the way. PUSH BACK!

Merry said...

Hahahahahaha! Yes, everything you just said made the memories of Nanjing come flooding back! I remember one time getting in a taxi and saying clearly that I wanted to go to the airport. The driver repeated "feiji chang" to make sure he got it right. I nodded. Then he got going, flipped a U-turn to go the right direction, then decided that he'd still better make sure we were communicating. He pulled over, drew a picture of an airplane, and then repeated "feiji chang" to make sure I knew where I'd asked him to go. After a few more tries we got on our way. In his defense, I was going to pick up luggage that had been lost on my way to China, so I had no luggage with me and did not look like I would be traveling on an airplane.

Me said...

Holly, this is why I love you :P
-Amanda

M.C. Sommers said...

I guess we should all be grateful that Margaret chooses not to drive, huh? :)

I wish you had gone on and on. I seriously know nothing about China (although I'm glad to hear that the stereotype of bicycles is true).

Please keep updating us on your experiences!

Amanda S. said...

I wish that people would honk their horns in this manner more in the States. Thanks for the update. I'm officially scared for your life. Be safe in your travels! Or maybe you should just never leave the house.

hburdie said...

Sounds like you guys are having quite the time of it over there! Love the new pictures of Fin. He's pretty much my favorite non-pet.

Mimi Collett said...

I am really glad I am not driving there. Minus the bicycle part, it sounds similar to driving in Brazil. No rules! The shoulder is another lane (even if you're a semi and don't fit!). My dad took a coworker home once, and the only way she knew how to get to her own home she had lived in for years was to go the wrong way on a one-way street. My mom was in more accidents our first year in Brazil than she had been in her entire life in the States. Good luck!!